Gorubathan Concludes Tihar with the Unique "Dee Haala Bhauju" Maruni Dance

Souraj Butang Rai and KalimNews, Gorubathan, November 19, 2024 : Gorubathan celebrated and concluded the Tihar festival with its legendary Dee Haala Bhauju Maruni Dance on November 18. The Maruni Dance is one of the oldest and most vibrant dance forms of the Nepalese community, often performed during festivals, weddings, and other celebrations. It is characterized by bright, colorful costumes and originally featured male dancers portraying female characters, though female dancers now also participate.

Gorubathan is believed to have been observing this tradition for over a century. Dee Haala Bhauju Haat is a celebration of Nepali cultural heritage through the Maruni Dance, taking place just after Tihar, another major festival of the Nepalese community. Gorubathan, situated in the foothills of the Kalimpong Hills, adjoining the Dooars, is notable for its unique and culturally significant customs. Accompanied by folk music and songs, often incorporating humor or storytelling, Dee Haala Bhauju Haat is celebrated as a festival during the Monday market, just two weeks after Tihar. The originality of this specific style or interpretation of the Maruni Dance is unique to Gorubathan, a region in West Bengal with a significant Nepali-speaking population.

Gorubathan has preserved a rare and special form of the dance. The dance event in Gorubathan carries historical and cultural significance, distinguishing it from other regions.

Gorubathan, under the jurisdiction of Kalimpong district and located at an elevation of 328 meters above sea level, offers a unique experience for newcomers. Initially, the local dialect, customs, and some practices might seem strange to outsiders. While Sundays are public holidays across the country, Gorubathan observes Monday as a holiday for local tea gardens and schools, calling it Sombarey Bazar Haat (Monday market). This is due to the tea gardens' custom of having Sunday and Monday holidays, as they follow a bi-weekly payment system, which also gave rise to this pattern.

Additionally, it is common to hear the phrase "revolving money" locally. When purchasing goods, if a vendor owes change, it is referred to as "revolving money." A historical anecdote relates how Mr. R.B. Rai, the former Headmaster of Judhabir Higher Secondary School, was surprised by this phrase when he first visited Gorubathan and bought pan at a shop in Sombarey market. Another unique local expression is "Ulti Bela," referring to the late afternoon after 12 PM. For several years, Bhutanese Rupees circulated in Gorubathan, though they are no longer in use today.

Among the distinct regional features is the Dee Haala Bhauju Haat, which takes place after the Nepali Gorkha community's cultural festival, Tihar. During Tihar, Deusi is performed everywhere. The Maruni Dance, a tradition since ancient times, is an integral part of this festival. Although the Maruni Dance is a significant part of the Nepali community’s cultural heritage, it is believed that it should not be performed recklessly, as it is considered inauspicious in some traditions.

The community performing the Maruni Dance typically begins with the worship of Goddess Kali during the full moon of Dashain, with performances continuing during Tihar and Dashain alongside Deusi and Bhailo. Once the festival ends, the dance is concluded with final prayers and rituals. All instruments used in the dance, such as the Madal, Khankar, Maruni attire, and the bamboo staff, are then safely placed in a temple. As the Maruni Dance is performed as part of the goddess's worship, it is often referred to as the "Dance of the Goddess."

During Tihar, the Nepali Gorkha community celebrates the Maruni Dance with a regional touch in Gorubathan. On the second Monday of Bhai Tika, the Maruni troupe gathers at Sombarey market to sing Deusi, which is referred to as Dee Haala Bhauju Haat. In Gorubathan, women from the Nepali Gorkha community are relatively independent compared to other communities. They are not confined to household chores but also take responsibility for their families. In the hilly region, especially in markets, Nepali women are heavily involved in selling vegetables and other goods. Historical records from Gundri market in Darjeeling and the old market in Kalimpong support this. Similarly, women in Gorubathan have long been involved in selling goods during Dee Haala Bhauju Haat.

The Maruni troupe, while performing Deusi at Sombarey market, asks for donations as gifts, chanting "Dee Haala Bhauju" in reference to the Nepali women selling goods. The term "Bhauju" is a common and respectful title for elder women in the Nepali community, meaning "wife of an elder brother."

Dee Haala Bhauju Haat is essentially Deusi. The Maruni Dance begins with rituals and prayers in villages. Afterward, the Deusi and Maruni groups would go door-to-door at night, long before villages became densely populated. Following the village performances, the groups would gather at Sombarey market on the second Monday of Bhai Tika. Before performing Deusi, they would visit nearby temples, including the Ganesh Temple and Someshwar Temple (formerly Thakur Badi), to offer prayers. They would then perform the dance, invoking blessings from the deities. 

The dance begins with a prayer song for the goddess: "Sharan Tumaari Sevaa Hamaari Gaaley Abhar, Ek Mukhey Rudraksha Daalim Raajaa, Daalim Raani Sharan Gaaley Abhar, Mantarailey Purba Baandhyo, Paschim Baandhyo Chaarai Dishhaa Baandhi Laayo."

The historical fort of Dalim, about 12 km from Sombarey market, was built by the last Lepcha king, Pano Gaeboo Achyok. A powerful leader, he repeatedly thwarted Bhutanese invasions. A notable incident occurred when the Bhutanese king sent a peace delegation to the Lepcha king, who, while intoxicated, was betrayed and killed. His head was thrown into the Chel River, believed to have floated to a mythical site called "Bhutaahaa Daha."

Dalim Fort remained under Bhutanese control until 1865, after which it passed to the British East India Company. In 2018, the West Bengal Heritage Commission declared the fort a heritage site, and restoration is ongoing.

Maruni dancers, primarily men dressed as women, and one Dhatuwarey (a comedian wearing a mask), perform in traditional attire around the market, accompanied by musical instruments. The dance features traditional drums, Madals, including the large "Guru Madal," whose loud beat energizes the market. Other instruments like the "Khankar" (made of brass and bronze) and "Mujura" are also played. The Maruni group collects donations by shouting "Dee Haala Bhauju" as they entertain crowds. 

After a day of festivities, they return to the temple to conclude with a final prayer and song: "Shirai Ko Shirphool Kholera Raakha Hijo Thiyau Janaanaa Aaja Marad Aang Ko Choliyah Kholera Raakha Hijo Thiyau Janaanaa Aaja Marad."

In the past, people from various regions, including the plains, would gather for the vibrant Dee Haala Bhauju Haat. The event was so crowded and lively that children often went missing, lured by its excitement. Over time, the festival's popularity even attracted gamblers from Bhutan, Nepal, and the Duars region, who played games like "Fardi Gotti."

The exact origins of Dee Haala Bhauju Haat remain uncertain, though it has been celebrated since the early 20th century, likely beginning in the 1910s or 1920s. Local accounts suggest its popularity even before 1919, during the childhood of renowned Nepali literary figure Haimandas Rai.

Dee Haala Bhauju Haat is also a brilliant example of women’s empowerment. Women who were once confined to their homes now play vital roles in their families' economic well-being. This festival showcases how women break barriers, leading their communities in economic activities. The local women of Gorubathan are role models for empowerment, inspiring social organizations and government initiatives.

The local community works diligently to preserve this traditional festival, ensuring its continuation for future generations.