Kalimpong in Kolkata: Amar Khamar serves up flavours of the hills to diners in the city

 The latest edition of their pop-up at Annaja was the five-course Kalimpong Table, featuring local delicacies from the hills like ‘chhurpi, ‘gundruk’ and more

BARNINI MAITRA CHAKRABORTY | TT | 11.03.24: If you have ever stayed at a homestay in the hills of north Bengal, chances are that you have tried the cuisine from the hills of the east — simply spiced food with its fermented greens, pickles and chillies.

Manju Rizar and Lolita Thapa travelled all the way from Kalimpong to cook up a vegetarian feast with local flavours of Nepal and Kalimpong for the special Amar Khamar Table: All photographs by Soumyajit Dey

Amar Khamar recently gave Kolkatans a taste of the hills with the ‘Kalimpong Table’ edition of their regularly occurring Amar Khamar Table, at Annaja on Hindustan Road. The five-course meal was all about the flavours and bounty of Kalimpong, featuring no meat. The vegetarian menu was curated with local produce from Kalimpong, with the expertise of Manju Rizar and Lolita Thapa, who came all the way from their homes in the hill town to share their culinary offerings.

Manju Rizar and (right) Lolita Thapa brought their culinary expertise and produce from their own organic farms for the meal

Rizar and Thapa, residents of a small village named Waligaon in Kalimpong, belong to farming families who grow organic produce in their own farms and also rear cattle. They mentioned their long association with Amar Khamar and their joy at presenting their local food to people in Kolkata. “We are very excited to present the local food of Kalimpong to the people of Kolkata. Whatever ingredients we have used are all grown in our farms.”

On the menu

Sel roti, Alu Dum, and Gundruk ko achar

Some of the most popular food attractions of Kalimpong are sel roti — a jalebi-shaped or ring-shaped fried bread made with rice flour — and gundruk or fermented leafy greens, which are used in a variety of dishes, pickles and chutneys. The first course at the Kalimpong Table featured both. The traditional Nepali sel roti was served with Alu Dum, and Gundruk ko achar.

Dhero, Gundruk ko jhol, Badam ko achar

Next on the menu was dhero or buckwheat, with Gundruk ko jhol and Badam ko achar. The course was served with a piece of onion and a slice of lemon. The dhero was prepared with one of varieties of rice sold at Amar Khamar — an addition by chef Preetam Bhadra of Amar Khamar.

Kataribhog rice, Masyam ko dal, Karela til fry, Gundruk fry, Squash sabji, Kalimpong ghee

The third course was like a mini thali — a full platter with Kataribhog rice, Masyam ko dal, Karela til fry, Gundruk fry, and Squash sabji, served with some Kalimpong ghee and green chillies. While Kataribhog is a lightly aromatic long-grain rice grown in Bengal, masyam or masyang is known as ricebean or bean lentil and is a locally grown legume.

Makai ko chamal, Pumpkin Sabji, Chhurpi r Mula ko Achar

The fourth course featured another popular food item from the hills — chhurpi or yak’s milk cheese. This dish featured Makai ko chamal, with Pumpkin sabji, Chhurpi r mula ko achar. Makai ko chamal or makai ko bhat is cooked maize grains, the achaar is a sharp pickle made with radishes, chillies and chhurpi.

Masino ko kheer

The menu ended with dessert for the last course, which was Masino ko kheer. Masino is a variety of atop chal (rice partially cooked in the husk), which is sticky when cooked and is made into a kheer or payesh. This dish is usually made for birthdays and other special occasions.

Happy diners

The chefs of the evening explained the details of each course to the diners

The guests were really happy with the culinary experience. Sananda Mukherjee, who is a regular at Amar Khamar Tables, appreciated the “regional representation of food” and the “use of local ingredients” in the “nice and homely food.” While she enjoyed the whole experience, the Chhurpi r mula ko achar and Gundruk ko jhol “has my heart,” she said.