Next weekend you can be at ...Tinchuley

TT: The golden glow of the first rays of the sun touched the Kanchenjungha. There lay the Sleeping Buddha, stretched out in all his splendour. Serene amidst the snow-clad mountains, the purple hills etched out as far as our eyes took us with the wispy clouds curling up and the Teesta lazily snaking its way through the valley below. The sun a cauldron of fire bursting out from behind the mountains and the sky, iridescent. That was Tinchuley for us. A village of 17 houses, a three-hour drive from Siliguri.

Tinchuley. Named so as it is almost like a chula or mud oven with three little hillocks representing three tips of the chula. On one such tip is a very ancient monastery established, it is said, by a monk who was initiated into the order at Nalanda. At sunrise and sunset, the plaintive damaru and cymbals ring out, in veneration of the ancestors, appeasing the spirits. The music drifts down the mountains while the colourful prayer flags flap in the wind carrying a message of love and selflessness all across.

Over the years, the magic of the place has been trickling down, resulting in homestay arrangements. Of the 17 families, many take in guests but the one that warmed our hearts is Gurung Guest House. With a 12-room provision, it is homestay in the true sense. All the family members toil endlessly to provide comfort and simple home-cooked but extraordinarily delicious food. The ghee is homemade as is the honey, coming from their aviary. The tea leaves are hand- pounded and dried in the sun, the vegetables grown in patches. Served by the ever-beaming family, including the pishis or aunts of Dipendra Gurung, who went on urging us to eat well, heaping on our plates steaming hot food and the local chutney made from wild tomatoes. Indeed, this is hospitality.

You can book cars from Gurung's and make day trips to Darjeeling, Kalimpong and Gangtok. They are almost equidistant from Tinchuley taking about one-and-a-half hours each. On other days, it is worth visiting Lamahatta, a beautiful eco-park or just trek along the dense forest trails and find quaint villages tucked away in the heart of the mountains. You can visit the orange orchards bursting with fruits or the triveni of the Teesta where patient anglers set up their fishing tackles for hours, waiting for the hapless fish to bite the bait.

There is no Qutub Minar, no Taj Mahal, and no museum - nothing that you have to see. It's so quiet that even the dogs don't bark, they just follow you at your heels. But as you breathe in the pure air, the place will get a hold on you. Be it the mesmerising natural beauty, the harmony of the tea pickers at their work, the endless stretches of tea gardens, the comfort food or just the silence curling around you - it is a perfect getaway. The riot of colours of wild flowers, the comforting clucking of a brood of hens, the constant bird songs, the clarity of the blue sky, the chill in the air are an antidote to city life. We came away soul-cleansed and energised, ready to take on the world again.

Going

Fly to Bagdogra or reach New Jalpaiguri by train. From New Jalpaiguri or Siliguri, it's a three-hour journey by car.

Staying

Gurung Guest House is the best option. There are some other homestays also. For details, visit the website www.tinchuley.com

(Metro on Sunday thanks reader Shovona Mukherji for this contribution. Picture by author)