NOSTALGIA IN THE HILLS: TAKING A LOOK AT DARJEELING’S COLONIAL PAST....New look at Darjeeling’s colonial past

Amitava Banerjee, HT, 5 January 2017, Darjeeling: A couple of centuries ago, Darjeeling looked quite different from how we see her now. If unplanned construction is responsible for turning some of the vantage points into eyesore, the British can still claim almost the entire credit for turning Darjeeling into one of the most beautiful hill stations in the country, if not the world. 

MACFARLANE MEMORIAL CHURCH, KALIMPONG: The most prominent landmark in Kalimpong turned 125 this year. Named after William MacFarlane, the first missionary from the Church of Scotland who visited Darjeeling in 1870, the structure is a visual treat. The foundation stone was laid in 1890 and it was opened in 1891. Designed in Scottish style, and church belongs to the Gothic Revival school of architecture. The tower and pinnacles were probably added later. The structure was damaged in the big earthquake in 2011. The church was closed till 2013. 

“The interiors, bell tower and pinnacles were extensively damaged. The authorities declared the Church unsafe,” said Subin Pradhan, an architect who took part in the restoration that had cost around Rs 73 lakh.

In February 1829, two British officers, Captain George Alymer Lloyd and J. W. Grant first set foot on the Old Gurkha Station, the name this place used to be known by. Their visit led to the formation of Darjeeling for a population of around 10,000. The town is ten times bigger today and supports a huge migrating population, thanks to tourism and business. The prosperity hasn’t come without a price though. Most of the cottages and bungalows built by the British have been replaced by huge concrete buildings. 

However, some colonial structures have managed to withstand the test of time. Reminiscent of the “Queen of the Hills” era, these structures have evolved into timeless landmarks.